New Third Party Manufacturer

This week I wanted to write and make everyone aware of a new third party builder for photography accessories, YONGNUO.

Some of you may have heard of them before and some of you may not, but YONGNUO has been around for a few years now and they started out making knock-offs of Canon and Nikon’s Speedlites.

If you are familiar with them, their first generation of Speedlites had issues with getting hot while using them or failing after short periods of time, but lately their quality has improved dramatically, to the point where now many Pros are buying their Speedlites and using them full time. Their newer YN560 Mark IV Speedlite is as good as the Canon 580 EX Mark II and has all the same features, (I Know because I own both Canon’s and YONGNUO’s models). And their newer YN600EX-RT is giving Canon’s new 600EX-RT a run for it’s money.

Photography is an expensive business to get into and anywhere you can save some money, you are doing well. YONGNUO’s YN560 Mark IV costs $69.00 compared to Canon’s 580EX Mark II’s $449 and the YN600EX-RT is $119 compared to Canon’s 600EX-RT at $499.

But in the last 2 years, YONGNUO has started making knock-off lenses as well to compete with Canon, Nikon, Tamron and Sigma. The first lens that YONGNUO offered was a total knock-off of Canon’s EF 50mm F/1.8 “Nifty Fifty”. Not only does the YONGNUO model look identical to Canon’s but in reviews, it shoots about 98% as good as Canon’s. The difference, Canon’s is $130 and the YONGNUO 50mm F/1.8 runs $56!

And now YONGNUO has released their own 35mm F/2 prime lens for both Canon and Nikon. The YN35mm F/2 looks identical to the Canon 35mm F/2 but where the Canon model runs $599, the YONGNUO model runs $94. I read a LOT of positive reviews of the YN35mm so this week I bought one myself and it arrived on Saturday and I took a couple of quick test images with it and was VERY impressed myself! I also discovered when processing in Lightroom that even though Lightroom doesn’t recognize the lens by default, the Canon EF 35mm F/2 lens profile works perfectly!

So, for those of you looking to save money, especially while attending AI, you have save a ton with YONGNUO Speedlites and lenses! Now I mentioned that I would show you how well the YN35mm F/2 lens works, well here are a couple images I shot with mine.

Comments/Questions

"Grey Market", Should You Avoid It?

Another question I get frequently from photographers that are new or photography students is “should I buy “grey market” camera gear and what exactly is it other than cheaper?”

First, let me start by saying ALL the major camera manufacturers are foreign to the USA and have USA counterparts that import and sell their products in the US. Nikon and Canon both have their US offices located on Long Island, NY and most of the rest of them are located in New York City as well.

These US offices are the ONLY source for importing the camera bodies, lenses, etc from the factories in Japan, Germany and elsewhere and selling in the US market with USA warranties.

Image of legit Nikon D7000 USA model box from Ken Rockwell

The reason many people are attracted to “grey market” items is the savings in pricing vs buying in the US. Most of the time, the “grey market” items are made in the same factory as the USA items to the same specs and using the same parts and quality control, but in this day and age there is a LOT of counterfeiting going on out of China, so you have to be very careful.

When you by a “grey market” item, you cannot go to Nikon or Canon US and get service or warranty repair. Even if the item is made in their factory, since it was not imported by the US division and they did not get their mark-up, they are not obligated to honor any warranty and they won’t.

Right now their is a large legal battle between Canon and “Grey Market” sellers on eBay. Canon USA is suing them for hurting their business, which is odd as the “Grey Market” sellers have been doing it for decades and Canon didn’t seem to care until just recently.

Some of the large, reputable dealers even sell “grey market” lenses at least, B&H is one of them and they even have a “grey market” section on their site that explains this. Now in the case of a large company like B&H, they offer a comparable warranty on their “grey market” items and service and warranty them through their massive store in NYC.

Many people have differing opinions on “grey market”, my opinion is do your homework and then decide for yourself. I have bought some “grey market” lenses as the savings were huge compared to buying the USA model and the dealer I bought from is very reputable and warranties the items themselves, but not all of them do and many use slick talk and ads to con you out of your money so you do have to be careful. I would NOT buy a camera body “grey market” as it’s the most important piece of my photography set up. I buy genuine USA models only from an authorized Canon dealer so I know when it needs service I can send it to Canon US.

I’ve mentioned in earlier blog posts several ways to save on lenses, like buying them from pawn shops, CraigsList, eBay or from a members of local camera clubs. Most new photographers, and especially photography students don’t have Trust Fund money, so find those deals where you can. I’ve even made a fair share of extra money buying old FD lenses for almost nothing from local pawn shops as they had been sitting on them for 10-12 years and them sell them on eBay for a massive profit and then use that money to buy the new lens or body I wanted.

Is “grey market” for you? Only you can decide that, but be careful and do your homework. Remember the old adage, “if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is”.

Comments/Questions

ImagingUSA 2016

This week I wanted to write briefly about last weekend’s Imaging USA 2016 event put on by PPA here in downtown Atlanta.

Welcome banner at ImagingUSA 2016

Imaging as some of you may or may not know is a huge annual photography convention put on that draws huge crowds and the largest companies in the world of photography and photo equipment.

Companies such as Canon, PhaseOne, Millers, Denny’s were there as well as Tamron, Sigma and many others. Speakers included Julianne Kost from Adobe, Lindsay Adler, Sue Bryce, Landon Day, and Ty Fischer just to name a few.

Sigma Photo Art Lens banner

 There were tons of new photography tech items there such as an item called the Ice Light, which can be used for portraits and is nice and portable and can actually be held by the model wherever the photographer needs lighting. Another company, GroWing had a newer invention called the Lens Flipper, that allows you to attach two of your lenses to either side of this device and quickly switch lenses in the field while shooting.

Just a small sample of the crowd waiting to get into the expo opening day.

The expo had tons of things to see and do and plenty of give-a-ways going on every day as well. I was lucky enough to win a few 8 x 10 metal print from AdroamaPix as well as a free phonebook from another print vendor.

I didn’t not get to take in any of the speakers or spend as much time as I would have liked because of the car accident I was in back in October and still having a lot of back and neck pain, but I had volunteered to help out and didn’t want to leave them in a lurch so to speak.

Imaging USA is certainly something I highly recommend everyone take in at least once. If you are a photography student, you can sign up as a student volunteer and get to attend the entire event for free with a full access pass and attend all the lectures you want during your downtime. Volunteers are generally only scheduled to work 2-5 hours a day so you can take in a LOT.

Next year’s Imaging USA will be in San Antonio, TX January 8-10th, 2017.

Comments/Questions

Should I Only Buy Name Brand Lenses?

Another one of the questions I myself and many other photographers get from students is this one, “Should I only buy Name Brand lenses”, i.e. Canon, Nikon, Sony, etc.

To be honest there are no straight yes or no answer to this question. Some of it is personal preference, some of it is your budget. I am a Canon shooter and I love my Canon gear, but do I only buy Canon lenses? Absolutely not! Why, well for one thing, I have an I.Q. higher than 10 points and another, I am NOT rich!

In the past you would usually hear the old adage you get what you pay for but this is no longer the case. Over the last few years third party lens builders have gotten better and better at putting out quality equipment. Tamron, is in my humble opinion, the King of third party lenses, outside Carl Zeiss, who’s lenses are priced so ridiculously high, for manual only lenses, I will never own one.

I consider Tamron the King of third party lenses because I have personally never had a bad Tamron lens nor read any bad reviews on any of them. I have had Sigma lenses that threw all kinds of weird errors when I tried to use them and the image quality had been really weak on some of them I have used but I have read that lately Sigma is getter really good as well. Just like Canon or Nikon, both builders have their low end lenses and their high end lenses. For Tamron, their high end ones are the SP series, and many photographers compare Tamron’s SP series as being nearly as good if not sometimes better than Canon “L” series glass. Image quality, build quality, all on par or better than Canon’s “L” glass, the catch is, Tamron’s SP lenses cost WAY less money.

Monarch butterfly shot with Canon 70-200mm F/4 L USM

What is the most popular zoom lens in photography? The 70-200mm lens is by far used by more pros than any other zoom lens every made. Why, well it has what is known in the industry as the “sweet” focal lengths. 70-85mm is popular for portraits as is 135mm and having a max of 200mm is good for most all around shooting, sports, events, etc. Now Canon makes four versions of the 70-200mm “L” series lens. There’s the 70-200mm F/4 L with or without IS (Image Stabilizer) and the 70-200mm F/28. with or without IS. These four lenses vary in price from $800-$2,100 for the new F/2.8 IS II. As most people will tell you, if you want the best lens, go with the F/2.8 with or without IS depending on your wallet. The reason is the faster F/2.8 lets in more light so you can use it in lower light shooting, like if you specialize in shooting bands at concerts or bars as those are very low light situations.

Not everyone wants to spend $2,100 for a single lens, enter Tamron. Tamron offers the same 70-200mm F/2.8 Di VC (Di means fits full frame as well as crop bodies, VC means Vibration Compensation, same as Canon’s IS) for $999-$1,499 depending on who you buy it from. That is considerable savings for the most popular lens in one of the best apertures. I currently have the Canon 70-200mm F/4 USM but plan to pick up the Tamron 70-200mm F/2.8 Di VC as one of my near future purchase.

Hopefully, this article will help you decide where you want to put your money when it comes to lens purchases. Now get out there and make some great images!

Comments/Questions

Canon Speedlites, Which One to Choose?

This week I am writing on the topic of Canon Speedlites, I apologize for not covering Nikon as well but I only use Canon as I am a Canon shooter.

As a new photographer, there are literally tons of equipment you will be buying as you work on your degree at AIOPD. Cameras, backdrops, lighting, both strobes and continuous, meters, graycards, the list goes on and on.

When it comes to lighting and especially strobes, which are one of the most popular lighting choices for photographers, you not only have regular strobes like AlienBee, but also their smaller cousin, the Speedlite.

Regular strobes are nice but expensive, especially if you need portability, as you have to buy models that can take battery packs and then the battery packs are not cheap either. The cheaper alternative is Speedlites. A Speedlite, external flash is basically the same thing as a strobe but in a smaller, cheaper package and more portable.

Speedlites, like strobes, come in different models and have different power levels and capabilities. Today, I will be talking about the three most common models of Canon Speedlites, the 270EX, 430EX II and the 580EX II.

The 270EX is Canon’s smallest external, hotshoe mounted flash. You can pick up the 270EX on Amazon used for around $50 or new for around $200. The 270EX is handy as it’s small and it for when you need a discrete flash and your camera either doesn’t have pop-up flash or you need more power. The 270EX is handy for those situations, but other than that, not really worth the money and I never bothered to pick one up as it has limitations. It cannot be turned or used for bouncing and has no zoom. It is strictly a straight forward flash.

The next and best choice for a starting flash is the 430EX II. The 430 is Canon’s slave flash and is an excellent choice for a first flash whether your camera has pop-up or not. The 430EX II is a bounce, zoom flash, so when set for ETTL it will set itself for your lens focal length up to 105mm and it will show the exposure in your camera meter, with the flash factored into the equation. You can swivel the 430EX II to 180 degrees and even tilt the head for bouncing the light off the ceiling or wall behind you. This flash comes in handy for when you need the light of s strobe but don’t want that light to hit the subject head-on. You can get the 430EX II at Best Buy for around $250-$300.

The third and final flash I have here is the Canon 580EX II. This is the most expensive of the Canon Speedlite (although the 600EX RT is out now too). The reason for this is the 580EX II is the Master Speedlite. What that means is the 580EX II has special hardware inside it that let’s is act as the control flash for a multi-flash, wireless set up. You can set the 580EX II to Master mode and then it can control other 580EX IIs or the 430EX IIs as well. This comes in handy for when you need a multi-flash set up and cannot set all the Speedlites in direct, line of sight placement so that all of them flash when the primary one does and you don’t have a Pocket Wizard, or other wireless flash trigger system. The 580EX II will run you from $350-$600, depending on whether you pick up a new or a used one.

As a new photographer, I recommend the 430EX II for most people and most uses as you can pick up a good wireless trigger system for anywhere from $50 to $400 and control the flash units that way instead of buying the much more expensive 580EX II. If you have the money to spare, I recommend the 580EX II as it’s Canon’s best Speedlite, but I would not buy more than one as the 430EX II is a cheaper alternative for slave flash units.
Comments/Questions

Mirrorless vs DSLR

Today more and more people are asking myself and others, what’s the difference between Mirrorless and DSLR cameras? Which one is better than the other, and why do both exist?

Well, let’s start with a DSLR as most people know what they are. A DSLR is a Digital Single Lens Reflex camera system. This means there is one lens on the camera and a mirror that reflects what the lens sees and feeds that data into the pentaprism so that we can see what the shot will look like through an optical viewfinder. When the photo is snapped, the mirror flips up out of the way so the light and image hits the sensor directly and the photo is taken. DSLRs are the workhorse of modern photography, but they are heavy and can be more expensive than Mirrorless cameras.

                                         Sony NEX 6 Mirrorless camera 16-50mm F/3.5-5.6

A Mirrorless camera is one that has no mirror assembly, the light and image pass directly through the lens onto the sensor and mirrorless cameras have either an LCD to look at and compose the image with or an electronic viewfinder which feeds the image from the sensor directly to your viewfinder and eye and you see exactly what the sensor sees. This is nice because as you adjust your settings, your eye sees a more accurate rendition of what the final image will look like, but the downside is battery life and speed. My DSLR can shoot up to 1,000 images on a battery charge, where my Sony NEX 6 can only last for around 300-400 shots.

                                        Canon 5D Classic Full frame camera 17-40mm F/4 L

DSLRs have a wider range of lenses to choose from and a much faster Auto Focus system then Mirrorless cameras too, so most any serious photographer is going to shoot with a DSLR. But Mirrorless cameras do have their place and they keep getting better and better all the time. If you shoot nothing but landscapes and portraits, you can get by with just a Mirrorless camera and they do come in both crop sensor models like my NEX 6 as well as full frame models like the Sony A7 series and the Fuji X100 series.

So, which platform is right for you? Only you can decide that. Like I said, if you need fast AF and a wide selection of lenses and want to shoot sports you will want to go with a DSLR, but if you shoot non-action like landscapes and portraits only, certainly give a Mirrorless a try. Mirrorless cameras do also tend to cost less, you can get a new Sony A7 series for a little over $1,000 for a brand new full frame model, where a DSLR full frame will run you $1,800 to $7,000. You can even go to a company like Lumoid and rent a Mirrorless for 3 dys and try it out for yourself. How is the image quality? Check out the two images I post here. One is shot with my Sony NEX 6 Mirrorless and the other with my Canon 5D Classic using the same scene for both images. Which one looks better to you if either?

Now get out there and make some great images!

Comments/Questions

It's Not ONLY About the Camera

One of the things that I hear people talk about all the time is the only way to take great photos is to use an expensive camera. Although having a good camera can help with taking good photos, it’s not the only piece that makes for a great image, as a matter of fact, it’s not even the most important part.

“The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it.” – Ansel Adams. This quote is more true than most people realize, the key to making great images is not the camera, it’s the person operating the camera. In this tech intensive world too many times people put the emphasis on the technology and not the person working with it.

You the artist are the most important part of making any great image and the sooner you figure that out, the better off you’ll be. The human eye can see things that the camera cannot and the human imagination can visualize the scene a certain way. What we do with the camera is try to translate what we see and feel into a timeless moment that others can share when they view the finished product.

                                              iPhone 5S shot using 645Pro MKII app

I do have a small arsenal of cameras that I use, anything from a GoPro Hero3+, to my Sony NEX6, to my iPhone 6 Plus, to the Canon 50D, 1D Mark II and my 5D Full frame. All of these are just tools, these are my paint brushes if you will, but they cannot make a great image on their own. I am the one that sees the scene, the image in my mind and what the final product will look like, the cameras can do none of this.

One of the things that Damon Sauer and Ted Fisher talked about this past week on the Photo Live: Get Technical was proper exposure, making sure you have the right pieces of the ‘Holy Trinity’ in photography. The shutter speed, aperture and ISO are how we make the exposure the way it is supposed to be to make the statement we want.

                                      Bumble bee on a flower, shot using NEX6 w EF-S 60mm

As I shared during this Live event, the one thing I do all the time is shoot 2 1/3 ticks below my camera meters ‘perfect’ exposure point. I do this because when I do my post production, I want to manipulate the Highlights and Shadows to bring out more details in my finished image. But again, this is a PERSONAL preference and not something the camera can do on it’s own. My cameras are tool, they do not have a mind of their own, they don’t have an imagination and they cannot visualize the finished product, only I can do that.

In this week’s article I shared two images that I shot earlier this year. The first one I took with my iPhone 5S after a co-worker told me that you cannot take a great photo with a smartphone. The second is one I took of a bumble bee on a flower bush in front of my home. I shot that one with a mis-matched set up. I used my Sony NEX6 with my Canon EF-S 60mm F/2.8 Macro lens. Both of these images help to prove my point, it’s more about you than the camera.

Comments/Questions

Best Places to Buy Photography Gear on a Budget

Frequently I hear students say that they don’t have much in the way of photography gear due to cost of ownership. It is true that photography gear is not cheap, unless it’s cheap quality and hence gives cheap results. I’ve had quite a few students ask me how I have acquired so much gear in the last 18 months and I tell them all the same thing, you have to know how to find the deals.

1. Craigslist - Craigslist can be one of the best places to get a good deal on most anything, especially camera gear and lenses. I have bought numerous pieces of gear on this site, but you have to watch out for scammers and always meet people in public places like a coffee shop or store parking lot during the day.

2. eBay - eBay is handy for buying items too as you can find more sellers on there since they are world wide. The problem is you also run into more scammers. Also since you are buying on-line, there is no way to check out the item in person and you can get burned.

3. Pawn Shops - Pawn Shops are a great place to buy used gear and they often have no clue what they have. A person goes into a Pawn Shop to pawn their gear and the shop looks at what the gear sells for on eBay and then offers the seller like 25% of the actual value. If the person forfeits and the Pawn Shop can then sell the item, it is usually months later and the shop doesn’t really keep track of the value, they just price it to make a profit.

4. Local photography clubs - Often times you can find local photography clubs and there will be members selling gear from time to time.

5. Warehouse stores - Another good place are warehouse stores like Sam’s or Costco. Here you are buying new and getting a warranty and you get the better pricing offered by someone that can leverage volume pricing.

6. Amazon - Amazon is another great place to get camera gear and anything else. They have a wide selection of lenses from Canon’s FD to EF and Nikon, Sony and others as well.

                                          70-200mm F/4 L USM and 70-300mm IS USM

    The big thing to remember buying used gear is that you can get burned if not careful. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is but sometimes you do get lucky and the person has no idea what they are selling. I personally bought a Canon EF 70-300mm IS USM lens at a local pawn store for $200 in mint condition. This lens new retails for $900. I also bought a Manfrotto tripod at the same store for $50 and it was missing the release plate that attaches to the camera. I bought a  new plate for $7 on Amazon, the tripod with the fluid movement head turned out to be worth $500. Just remember, if you buy used, test it good before you part with your hard earned money. Meet them somewhere public for safety and test the lens or whatever it is on your own camera body to make sure it is fully operational, NEVER take the seller’s word for it.

    Good luck with buying more gear and get out there and make some awesome images!

Comments/Questions

Which Lenses are Better, Primes or Zooms?

    Another question I have frequently asked by other students and even members of my photography club is which lens is better, Primes or Zooms?

    This is an interesting question and can stir some debate. Primes are lenses with a fixed focal length, such as the Canon 40mm STM Pancake lens or the Canon or Nikon 50mm lenses, known as the “Nifty Fifty”. These lenses are not able to zoom in and out but they are extremely power lenses to have.

    Advantages of the Primes is they will be of a wider aperture than the zooms. My 40mm lens is F/2.8 and my 50mm is F/1.4, with the wider aperture, I can use these lenses in much lower light levels than I can say my 28-135mm F/3.5-5.6 lens, which covers the same two focal lengths. There are today zooms than can do F/2.8 but they are very expensive and I don’t want to get off track here.

    The other difference with Primes is, since they have a fixed focal length you have to get closer when shooting something. A lot of photographers like to use the “Nifty Fifty” for portraits, but you cannot shoot a portrait of someone from 10-12 feet with a 50mm as you will pick up too much background. Move in to around 3-6 feet and you will get a great portrait, depending on the style you are shooting for. The Prime lens will generally have a sharper focus to it, even at the wide end of it’s aperture and will cost a lot less money than a zoom.

                                    My mailbox shot with the 40mm STM from around 2-3 feet

    Zooms do have their places, however, such as shooting at an outdoor event like a concert or fair where you cannot always get close to your subject and really need or want to get the shot. In these situations, yes it’s great to have that handy telephoto zoom lens to get in nice and tight to the subject without risking yourself or interfering with anyone else, say law enforcement at an accident scene. Zooms have come a long way and like a said, a nice 70-200mm F/2.8 is one of the most popular lens from both Canon and Nikon, but it’s also got a hefty price of up to $2,500 where you can get a good prime generally for $140-$700.

                           My mailbox shot with the Canon 70-200mm F/4 L USM from around 20 feet

    So, do both lenses have a place in your camera bag, absolutely, and as a general rule, my Primes and Zooms will usually sit in the bag peacefully without fighting too much. I do challenge you to use your primes more, many photographers tend to get lazy or they are shy and don’t want to get close to their subjects. I encourage you to break out of this mode of thinking and get close to your subjects, as long as you can do so without getting hurt or killed in the process. I’m not telling you to walk up to the lion at the zoo and get in his face with your 50mm, but next time you are shooting people, say on the street, use that 50mm and get up close and personal.


Comments/Questions

Keeping Your DSLR Sensor Clean

    One of the biggest problems we face as photographers is keeping that DSLR sensor clean when shooting, especially when shooting outdoors. Your sensor is the primary component inside your camera for capturing and preserving those moments to the memory card and needs to always be in the best possible condition and clean to take great photos. Dirt, dust, oils and general grime on the sensor will show up on your images and make them look badly such as the example below from The Digital picture.com

    Those two spots you see are from sensor dust and they are imbedded in your image. Now you can remove them using Photoshop, Lightroom and some other editing programs, but why not prevent them all together? I am going to give you some tips for keeping the dust and dirt out of your sensor.

Never touch the inside of your DSLR, especially with you fingers. The internal workings behind your lens are not meant for your fingers so, keep them out!
Only change your lens in a semi controlled environment. What I mean by this is don’t change your lenses outdoors in 35mph winds as you are just asking for sensor dirt.
Keep your camera pointed down when changing lenses. I am not sure why so many people don’t get this one. Holding the camera with the opening facing forward or up just invites the dirt in, holding it down makes it harder for it to get in.
Never change the lens with the camera powered on. Will it ruin your camera to do so, no but it will keep a static charge inside the shutter area and allow dust to be drawn to your sensor like a magnet.
   
    I have found, one of the easiest ways to keep my sensor clean is just limit how often I change lenses. I never change them outdoors if I can help it. I carry 2-3 bodies when I am shooting outdoors and I equip one body with a wide angle lens for landscapes, the second one will have a portrait lens of some sort for capturing people and my third will have a nice telephoto zoom for anything else I might need to shoot. Now I know you are thinking “I’m not rich enough to afford 2-3 camera bodies.” You’d be surprised the deals you can find at local pawn shops or yard sales, often people don’t realize what they have and will sell the bodies cheap. Also, who says you need the latest, most expensive body out there. Instead of buying one $1,000-$3,000 body, use that money to buy 2-3 bodies that are cheaper because they are the older model, like getting a Canon 1Ds full frame for $500 that was made in 2004 but still shoots great, instead of the Canon 1Dx which runs $7,000. Too many people don’t seem to realize that it is not the camera that takes the great images, it’s the person behind it.
    Until next Sunday, this is the Sunday Ambassador saying get out there and make some great images!

Comments/Questions

I have my strobes but how do I trigger them?

There are three major way to trigger strobes lights to go off. The first option is probably the cheapest but makes your studio area almost dangerous because you have your camera physically connected to your strobes by a wire. The will make it so you have a constant trip hazard in your studio. With this option you are also relying on the other strobe firing with its optical slave. A optical slave is an eye on the strobe head that can see other strobes flash. When the eye sees other strobes go off it will make that strobe go off as well. You can also use this option and take your on camera flash or a speed light to trigger the strobes. The disadvantage with this option is when you are doing an on location shoot your optical eye my not see the other strobes go off because of all the ambient light. Because you dnt have a controlled environment of a studio this Optical slave option isn't a very good one. The third option is to use a wireless trigger. This system works by taking a trigger and attaching it to you camera, then attaching another to each strobe. The trigger that you attach to your hot shoe will trigger all the other triggers. Thus eliminating the worries that the optical slave won't see the other strobe going off. Another problem with relying on a optical slave say for a wedding reception, when ever anyone takes a photo near by that has their flash on they will set off your strobe.

A few wireless trigger systems that I have read about are Younguo, Pocket Wizards, Phottix just to name a few. While I only have experience with pocket wizards I sure they all work the same. The main difference in them are they can only work with each other because they all have different frequencies. They also all have different working distances so you may want to research that prior to purchasing your triggers. This way you will purchase the right one to meet your needs. Another thing to consider is some strobe companies make their own triggers. For me I purchased the Pocket Wizard brand because I knew that my light meterhas a pocket wizard build into it. When I want to take a reading I hit the button on the meter and it fires the strobes. To hook up your trigger one attaches to the camera via the hot shoe,the receiver part of the trigger connects to your strobes with a wire between the trigger and the strobe. You will want to purchase one trigger for each strobe plus you will need the transceiver for the camera.

Some places you can purchase these triggers are B&H Photo, Adorama, Mac On Campus, or your local Camera store. Be sure to look and ask what student discounts are available.

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Thursday Ambassador 

Wide-Angle Wednesday: Is that spot on the lens or sensor?

Corina Scoggins "Good Morning Saturday" 22 Feb 2014

Good Morning Fellow Photography Classmates and Faculty!

I’m excited to be back in a photography course this term and as expected I have been shooting my little heart out. I recently purchased the Canon 100mm Macro USM lens and I have been trying to achieve the awesome macro shots we have all come to see in macro photography. Below is a mystery rainbow that appeared on my living room ceiling yesterday morning. I'm still wondering what caused the prism to appear, but I used the macro lens to capture the image. It must be noted that my home faces North and South, and the light coming into my home was defused by window blinds. Maybe it was a fore shadow to brighten my day because as you read on, you will see that my day didn't pan out so well.  

Corina Scoggins "Magic House Rainbow" 25 Feb 2014

Yesterday while out shooting for the upcoming assignment I had a moment in which shut down the use of my camera. I had been shooting for three hours when I started to notice spots in the images. I do a lot of outside shooting and from moment to moment I tend to switch out lenses constantly. My biggest worry has always been dust getting on the sensor or on the lens. 

I recently read a thread in a local photography group about this very issue. The recommendation was to change the lens and take a shot. If the spots were gone, then the spots are coming from the previous lens. If the spots were still in the image, then chances are something is on the sensor. Luck was not on my side; the spots continued to appear on the images. This forced me to have to wrap everything up, and head for home.

Corina Scoggins "Hawk at Happy Hollow" 25 Feb 2014

Knowing our little town doesn’t have anyone who specializes in cameras, I knew I would have to solve the issue myself.  With the Internet at my fingertips, I started the search for recommendations. If the Internet wasn’t available, the best recommendation would be to pull out the book, but I simply searched Canon sensor cleaning to find the help page on Canon.com. 

Majority of DSLR cameras have a built in sensor cleaning. I knew my camera had built in sensor cleaning and if I simply would have turned off the camera; the camera would have commenced to clean the sensor. Of course during the moment, my concern was getting home to solve the issue. Little did I know the issue was solved upon turning off the camera. With the looming deadline for the assignment, my mind was not focused. Not having a backup camera, my fear was the assignment would not be complete with the images shot on Sunday and Monday. So I continued to read on to figure out how to fix a problem that had self-fixed.

Corina Scoggins "MP Memorial Grove" 25 Feb 2014

If the initial sensor cleaning had not corrected the issue, Canon recommends two methods. The first recommendation was to use the rubber air blower technique. The second recommendation would be to take the camera to a Canon Service Center. I followed the instructions for the first recommendation and proceeded to use the rubber air blower bulb I had purchased many moons ago and glad I had it available. Other options are talked about on the help page but are NOT recommended by Canon, yet they do write about these options. 

Thankfully the issue was resolved and I will be bearing the frigid temperatures to finish shooting for the assignment due. I’m glad the camera didn’t have to be sent to Canon, but the Girl Scout in me has me thinking if I should purchase a backup camera. Nothing new, something used but most importantly a camera that could be used just in case. Additionally, I really need to better plan for desired shots that will limit the changing out of lenses. Below I have included the links to both the Canon and Nikon self help in regards to sensor cleaning. Hopefully you will never have this issue, but just in case, it’s best to “BE PREPARED”.

Canon Users

Nikon Users

Alright, why didn't I share the images with the spots? I could simply state that I had NO images with spots! Yes it's true, I freaked out about something that didn't exist. Here is the portion of the story in which I left out above. Everything written is exactly what occurred, and the spots I seen had nothing to do with my camera sensor or lens. The spots I was seeing all of a sudden was on the viewfinder! Now I do have to assume that the spots appeared while I had walked away to my vehicle and left the camera on the tripod. I say this because I had not noticed these spots until I walked back to the camera and started to shoot landscape. After everything was said and done, my mood was a little tempered for making such a rookie mistake. Today I can admit that it's a comical moment, and why not share with everyone on PSPN. Punishment for seeing spots and jumping to conclusion...temperatures in the teens. 

Well I hope today's blog will be a guidance in how to deal with spots? Even if spots had appeared in the images, chances are you wouldn't noticed them until you imported the images. If your seeing spots, clean the viewfinder first. Import the images to confirm if the spots are truly an issue on the images. Then proceed with the instructions to fully resolve any issues. 

Question of the Day

Have you ever jumped to conclusions while out on a shoot?

Share your comments, suggestions, and stories below

You're Wacky Wednesday Student Ambassador

Corina

Don't be afraid of Manual Mode

I was recently reminded of a website that I had seen some time ago regarding how to use your camera in manual mode.  There was a time (not that long ago) that the concept of setting the shutter and aperture all by myself was a very foreign, and scary concept.  After a lot of reading and experimentation I finally learned how shutter speed, aperture and ISO rating all effect the exposure of an image and what changes to the image can be seen with a change in each function.

While I could sit here and explain it all, I will save you what I'm sure would be the worst technical explanation ever and just point you towards the Canon Outside of Auto website.  It is a Canadian website, but I'm not going to hold that against them.  On the site you can adjust virtual camera settings and then take pictures of a scene with a moving object.  This gives you plenty of opportunities to see what each function of the camera does given the shooting situation.  There is even a challenge mode that tests your ability to shoot 6 specific shots.  I completed it 6 of 6 in 1:12.  See how good you can do...

Go on, get out of the green box....

now!

Where Should I Shop for Cameras and Equipment to Get the Best Deals?

Where’s the best place to buy a camera or other photo equipment? With so many options now, how is someone supposed to know where to start?

Obviously when you start shopping you should check out options and prices on the internet. Now be careful when you are looking at a particular product, be it a camera, lens, or other photography equipment, that you know what you are getting. When I bought my Canon 5D Mark II, I found sites that offered Canon 5D Mark II at really low prices, from Asia. They are call “knock off” products for a reason. They tell you they are the same, but the quality is usually lower AND (important point) there is no manufacturer’s warranty from Canon.  So Lesson 1: Make sure you know what is being sold. 

Lesson 2: Purchase from a reputable dealer. You CAN get great deals online. I purchased my camera used through Amazon.com. It actually was being sold by a pawn shop out west. It was an amazing deal. Because it was through Amazon, I had their guarantee policy. So as soon as it arrived, I tested the entire camera out and found that there was a row of dead pixels in the sensor. I contacted the seller and told them I would either return the camera, or they could pay for the repair work to be done by Canon. They agreed to pay for the repair work, which was $250 dollars. (Actually they credited the $250 back to me and I paid Canon). BINGO! I had a perfect camera totally repaired and certified by Canon. I only paid $1500 for the camera body including the repair. I already had Canon DSLRs so my lenses transferred to the new camera.

I almost always check Amazon first when looking for camera and accessories because most of the major camera equipment stores sell through them, and may offer better deals through Amazon than on their own websites such as B&H or Adorama. When you look at something on Amazon, see where it is being sold from. If you look up an L-series 24-70mm lens today, there are a bunch of used ones being sold from Japan. I’d stick with stateside purchases. Check out some used dealers also. One I trust is KEH.com. Also check in Rangefinder or Professional Photographer magazines for dealers.

Lesson 3: Get great deals at trade shows at the national photography conferences. When I attended the WPPI convention a couple years ago, I spent a lot of time at the trade show. I learned a lot and made some great vendor connections I’m still using today. I also found fantastic deals, most which were good for 30-60 days after the convention. This is how I bought my Westcott studio light package. I saved about 50% of the total retail cost. I also purchased template software for albums, photo collages, and marketing materials for a fraction of the normal cost. Beside all the valuable training and classes and interaction with great photographers, I was able to make great purchases, and plan for future purchases. (It was at the Canon booth that I learned that I wanted a 5D Mark II and L-series lenses to regain the quality I lot switching from medium format film to digital. So when I was ready to purchase, I could spend time looking for a great deal.)

The most important thing to remember when making photography equipment purchases is (Lesson 4) that YOU are the most important piece of equipment that will determine how your images turn out. Save BEFORE and buy when you can pay cash. While you are learning, you don’t have to have the best equipment. Learn to use what you have now to make great images. Then when you can afford to upgrade, you will be that much further ahead. 

Buying a Camera? I Just Did!

Good Morning my Tuesday morning aficionados and welcome to another edition of Terrific Tuesday.

Guess what! I just bought a new toy, yes I bought another camera!  My new toy is the Canon 7D DSLR camera.  As I was playing with it this weekend it occurred to me that the process of buying a camera is not an easy one, so I decided to use this blog today to share my point of view of buying a new camera.  Not everyone is the same and you may use different methods to come to the decision, my ideas here are personal ones that I want to share with anyone willing to listen.  So here are the steps that I used that I will share with you.  These steps are not all inclusive and I know that some of you have other considerations, but I think this will get you thinking about some topics.

Purpose of purchase – If you want to just buy a camera for family picnics, going to the beach and everyday situations you might just want to buy a point and shoot camera.  These cameras are very easy to use and like the name say, they are just made for you to point the camera to where you want and then push the button, the camera does the rest.

If you are into photography and want to buy a camera for the long haul, play with the settings and use it for professional type images, then the DSLR camera are the ones that you are looking for.  “These are your higher end cameras often used by professional photographers. They are characterized by larger image sensors and better photo quality. They offer the photographer the greatest control over the camera settings including complete manual control if desired” (Practical Photography Tips).  Once you decide what you are going to be using the camera for, then you will have a better idea of where to look.

Now remember that there are a lot of different types of DSLR camera and what is good for someone else might not be good for you.

Budget – I know that some of you might have started with this one, but without knowing what you will be using your camera for, you might have a hard time fixing the budget to the purpose of the camera.  If you are in the photography program with the Art Institute of Pittsburgh, you might have already received some information that talks about the different types of camera from the entry level to the most advance ones.

There is nothing wrong with buying an entry level camera to begin the studies and getting you used to the shooting of images with the different courses you will take.  There are cameras there from the $500.00 all the way to the Canon EOS 5D Mark III that would run you over $4000.00.

 

http://www.videomaker.com/article/15518-canon-eos-5d-mark-iii-dslr-review

Extras – This area will probably add up to more money than the purchase of the camera!  Once you decide what camera you also have to remember that down the road you will be purchasing equipment such as lenses, hot shoe flash, remote controls, extra batteries, SD or CF cards for example.  

If you follow these simple tips, you probably will get a great camera to work with.  To end this blog let me give you some last minute tips to remember.

1.    Buy a camera for now and for the future.  The reason I bought another camera is because the one that I started school with, was no longer proper for the classes that I am taking now.  I needed a camera capable of recording video for the current class (Time-Based Media), if you are going for your bachelors with the school, this is going to be a requirement for you.

2.    Research, research, research, and when you are done researching, research some more!  Find the camera that you will feel comfortable with, the one that you will love for a long time!

3.    If you live close to a camera store, go over there and compare the cameras, touch them, grab them and see how they feel in your hands.  You want a camera that feels like an extension of your arm when you use it on a daily basis.  There is nothing wrong with taking your time when shopping, remember what you are going to use it for, your budget and all the extras you will need.

4.    Remember that lenses are not interchangeable and usable from one brand to the other.  If you buy a Nikon, the lenses will probably not work with a Canon and vice versa.  Some other extras are universal, lenses are not, however if you buy a Canon or Nikon, the lenses will work within their own brand.

5.    Buy a new camera that comes with some warranty.  I know a lot of people are in love with Craigslist but I feel that when you buy a used camera you have no idea what has happened to the camera or how the images are going to turn out, or if the inside sensors are defective.  Plus remember all the extras that you might need, do you want to gamble like that?  Of course, this is a personal opinion!

I started my studies with the Canon Rebel XSi and it served me well for three and half years!  So, as you can see a good not too expensive camera will serve you well for a long time.  My new camera satisfies the requirement for the current class and will be with me for a long time.  Now I have two different cameras that can serve different purposes and be backup for each other.  If you want to start your research, here are some sites for you to start reading and researching.

Digital Camera buying guide:

 http://www.practicalphotographytips.com/digital-camera-buying-guide.html#axzz2f4IcyeDa

How to buy a camera, 9-step guide:

http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-buy-a-digital-camera

Best DSLR for beginners:

http://www.techradar.com/us/news/photography-video-capture/cameras/best-dslr-for-beginners-6-tested-1058256

Nikon Vs. Canon:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/nikon-vs-canon.htm

Well, hope this helps someone out there with buying a camera!  Let me know what you think and if you have any other tips, go ahead and share them with the readers, we all can learn from each other experiences.

Until later then, this is your Tuesday Ambassador wishing you a great day, don’t forget to keep shooting!

Tuesday Ambassador

Practical Photography Tips.  “Digital Camera Comparison”.  2012.  Web.  15 September 2013.  http://www.practicalphotographytips.com/digital-camera-comparison.html#axzz2f4IcyeDa