Building a System

 One of the things I want to share with you the readers is how to build your photography system or what to bring with you when you go out to shoot.

The first, and easiest thing to choose is your camera body, once you decide what brand to go with, Canon, Nikon or another, then it’s a matter of getting the right lenses. Do you want to shoot crop or full frame and what can you afford on your budget, don’t spend yourself into debt buying a camera body. I shoot Canon and a lot of Canon shooters run right out and buy the latest full frame, whether it’s the 6D, 5D Mark III or 5D R or 5D SR, or maybe even the 1D X. Most of these cameras are very expensive, anywhere from $2,500 to $6,500 for the 1D X.

I generally recommend buyer earlier models, especially if you are on a budget and want to get the most ‘bang’ for your buck. You can go on Craigslist or eBay and buy a great condition Canon 5D Classic for a few hundred dollars and most Canon shooters will tell you that the 5D Classic is still an awesome camera and between the various 5D models, still shoots landscapes better than the newer models do. I personally own 2 5D Classic and love them both, they might not have all the ‘bells and whistles’ of the Mark II or Mark III but they do what they are designed to do, take awesome images. I usually also recommend buyers good condition used camera bodies as you can not only save money but you can also afford to carry a backup or second camera.

As I mentioned, I have 2 of the 5D Classics and spent only around $400 for each one and then earlier this year, I did buy a new Canon 6D full frame body as well. I got my 6D from www.lumoid.com for $1,200 (considerably cheaper than $1,700 from Amazon or canon.com), plus I got the $300 rebate from Canon that they were offering at the beginning of the year. Now, instead of spending $2,500 for a brand new 5D Mark III and having one camera, I spent $1,700 and have three camera bodies, all of which are full frame!

Next, when it comes to lenses, you don’t want to cover every millimeter of focal length. First, it will cost you a lot of money, second it’s more gear to carry and more time wasted changing lenses rather than making images. Most of your pros, including famous ones like Ansel Adams never carried more than three lenses when they are out shooting. If you have three bodies like I do, I carry all three when I am out shooting for a day and I equip each one with a specific type of lens.

Shot with EOS 6D and EF 17-40mm F/4 L USM

I put my trusty Canon EF 17-40mm F/4 L USM on one body so I can capture fantastic landscapes. I equip the second body with my 85mm F/1.8 USM portrait lens so I can shoot people or street photography. My third body I equip with my Tamron SP 150-600mm super telephoto lens incase I need something with more reach to capture a shot of a red-tail hawk I spot sitting on a power line or in a tree. I know you are thinking ‘that’s a lot of gear and weight to carry around’, but I am used to it and I use the kind of camera carry systems that make carrying all this gear easy. I have the Spider Pro belt that I mount one body on my hip like a six shooter, I have the Camera Carry Pro clip system that I can also attach to my belt or a small backpack that carries the second body and then for my super telephoto lens/body combo, I use my Manfrotto monopod, which can double as a walking stick.

Shot with EOS 5D Classic and Tamron SP 70-200mm F/2.8 Di VC USD

If I am out shooting mostly landscapes for my Forgotten Pieces of Georgia, then the body with the Canon EF 17-40mm F/4 L USM is the one in my hand at the ready and the other two are standing by for shots of opportunity. By employing this strategy I am always ready for any shooting opportunity that presents itself and never have to change lenses in the field and don’t have to worry about sensor dust.

As I mentioned earlier, you do not need to cover every millimeter of focal length, do like the pros do and move closer or farther away and you can more than make up for not having every millimeter covered in lenses. You can even cut it down to two bodies and lenses and say carry a 17-40mm and then a 70-200mm, as the 70-200mm can be used for both portrait and zoom work, since it covers the two most popular portrait focal lengths of 85mm and 135mm.

Now that I have shared more on how to build your system, feel free to leave a comment or post a question, and get out there and make some great images!

Comments/Questions

Shooting with "Creative" Lenses

In this week’s blog post I wanted to write about something more on the creative side of photography, so I am writing about using “creative” lenses. The two that I am talking about today are the Lensbaby 2.0 and the Holga “toy” camera lens.

These two lenses can be fun to play around with and can help you create some interesting shots to say the least but they are not for the faint of heart. Since these are third party lenses and fairly inexpensive, they don’t come with all the “luxury” items you are used to with your standard Canon or Nikon lenses or even third party lenses such as Tamron and Sigma, which are engineered to work with your camera. These lenses have no aperture blades and no auto focus so you need to be fairly comfortable using your camera in full manual mode to play with them.

Looking at the Lensbaby, this lens is all manual and is designed to create blur effects. There is no focus ring and instead you squeeze the lens to get your focus. You literally grab both sides of the front ring plate on the lens and pull back towards your camera body to create your focus. At the same time, the lens will create neat looking blur effect to everything else that is not in focus. As you can see in my sample image, I didn’t get the focus totally spot on, but to be honest, I wasn’t trying to. The Lensbaby also comes with removable aperture discs, and each one is for a fixed aperture, depending on the size of the hole in the center of the disc. The discs are inserted into the front of the lens using a special tool that comes with the Lensbaby and mine is called the Lensbaby 2.0 as that is my widest aperture if I leave the disc out. Lensbaby has become fairly popular with people that like to create the “effects” that it can give you and Lensbaby makes a few different model lenses with different focal lengths, from 35mm to 50mm to 80mm. The Lensbaby also varies in price depending on which model and focal length you want. I bought mine used on Craig’s List for $30 but they can run as much as $500 new.

Shot with Lensbaby 2.0 at F/2 using Canon 5D Classic

The second lens I am writing about is the Holga “toy” camera lens. This lens you can buy new from around $20-$30 on Amazon and various other sites and it’s designed to give you the “old camera” look to your photos. The Holga only comes in a 60mm focal length and a fixed aperture of F/8 so you will need plenty of sunlight or very high ISO to get your images to come out at all. The Holga does have a slight focus ring but it only has three positions, portrait, small group and landscape and they are marked with little white icons. The Holga does have decent focus in the center so that is where you want your subject, but because it’s plastic, there is quite a bit of distortion and purple color fringing but you can remove that in post processing.

Shot with the Holga "toy" camera lens at F/8

 Both of these lenses are for more creative, “artsy” photography and you can take some really amazing photos with both lenses but as I mentioned earlier, you have to do EVERYTHING manually. There are actually groups and clubs out there where all the members shoot with a Lensbaby all the time. I personally think it’s silly to go to that extreme and I refer to those photographers as “One trick ponies”. It’s also sad as I have seen some Lensbaby photos that would have been a million times better with a regular 50mm lens. The silly distortion that you get with the Lensbaby is in my humble opinion cool at times, but not something I would use everyday. I love to shoot landscapes and it saddens me to see something shoot a beautiful lake scene with a cabin, etc and ruin the whole shot because they used the Lensbaby.

So, what do you the readers think? Is the Lensbaby or Holga “toy” camera lens something you’d like to play around with? If you want a Lensbaby, you can head over to http://www.lensbaby.com.au but as I mentioned at the beginning of my post, I would pick one up off Craig’s List for way under the $300-$500 they cost new. A lot of people buy them, then hate them and dump them on-line cheap. The Holga lens you can easily buy on http://www.amazon.com.

Comments/Questions

Wide-Angle Wednesday: Is that spot on the lens or sensor?

Corina Scoggins "Good Morning Saturday" 22 Feb 2014

Good Morning Fellow Photography Classmates and Faculty!

I’m excited to be back in a photography course this term and as expected I have been shooting my little heart out. I recently purchased the Canon 100mm Macro USM lens and I have been trying to achieve the awesome macro shots we have all come to see in macro photography. Below is a mystery rainbow that appeared on my living room ceiling yesterday morning. I'm still wondering what caused the prism to appear, but I used the macro lens to capture the image. It must be noted that my home faces North and South, and the light coming into my home was defused by window blinds. Maybe it was a fore shadow to brighten my day because as you read on, you will see that my day didn't pan out so well.  

Corina Scoggins "Magic House Rainbow" 25 Feb 2014

Yesterday while out shooting for the upcoming assignment I had a moment in which shut down the use of my camera. I had been shooting for three hours when I started to notice spots in the images. I do a lot of outside shooting and from moment to moment I tend to switch out lenses constantly. My biggest worry has always been dust getting on the sensor or on the lens. 

I recently read a thread in a local photography group about this very issue. The recommendation was to change the lens and take a shot. If the spots were gone, then the spots are coming from the previous lens. If the spots were still in the image, then chances are something is on the sensor. Luck was not on my side; the spots continued to appear on the images. This forced me to have to wrap everything up, and head for home.

Corina Scoggins "Hawk at Happy Hollow" 25 Feb 2014

Knowing our little town doesn’t have anyone who specializes in cameras, I knew I would have to solve the issue myself.  With the Internet at my fingertips, I started the search for recommendations. If the Internet wasn’t available, the best recommendation would be to pull out the book, but I simply searched Canon sensor cleaning to find the help page on Canon.com. 

Majority of DSLR cameras have a built in sensor cleaning. I knew my camera had built in sensor cleaning and if I simply would have turned off the camera; the camera would have commenced to clean the sensor. Of course during the moment, my concern was getting home to solve the issue. Little did I know the issue was solved upon turning off the camera. With the looming deadline for the assignment, my mind was not focused. Not having a backup camera, my fear was the assignment would not be complete with the images shot on Sunday and Monday. So I continued to read on to figure out how to fix a problem that had self-fixed.

Corina Scoggins "MP Memorial Grove" 25 Feb 2014

If the initial sensor cleaning had not corrected the issue, Canon recommends two methods. The first recommendation was to use the rubber air blower technique. The second recommendation would be to take the camera to a Canon Service Center. I followed the instructions for the first recommendation and proceeded to use the rubber air blower bulb I had purchased many moons ago and glad I had it available. Other options are talked about on the help page but are NOT recommended by Canon, yet they do write about these options. 

Thankfully the issue was resolved and I will be bearing the frigid temperatures to finish shooting for the assignment due. I’m glad the camera didn’t have to be sent to Canon, but the Girl Scout in me has me thinking if I should purchase a backup camera. Nothing new, something used but most importantly a camera that could be used just in case. Additionally, I really need to better plan for desired shots that will limit the changing out of lenses. Below I have included the links to both the Canon and Nikon self help in regards to sensor cleaning. Hopefully you will never have this issue, but just in case, it’s best to “BE PREPARED”.

Canon Users

Nikon Users

Alright, why didn't I share the images with the spots? I could simply state that I had NO images with spots! Yes it's true, I freaked out about something that didn't exist. Here is the portion of the story in which I left out above. Everything written is exactly what occurred, and the spots I seen had nothing to do with my camera sensor or lens. The spots I was seeing all of a sudden was on the viewfinder! Now I do have to assume that the spots appeared while I had walked away to my vehicle and left the camera on the tripod. I say this because I had not noticed these spots until I walked back to the camera and started to shoot landscape. After everything was said and done, my mood was a little tempered for making such a rookie mistake. Today I can admit that it's a comical moment, and why not share with everyone on PSPN. Punishment for seeing spots and jumping to conclusion...temperatures in the teens. 

Well I hope today's blog will be a guidance in how to deal with spots? Even if spots had appeared in the images, chances are you wouldn't noticed them until you imported the images. If your seeing spots, clean the viewfinder first. Import the images to confirm if the spots are truly an issue on the images. Then proceed with the instructions to fully resolve any issues. 

Question of the Day

Have you ever jumped to conclusions while out on a shoot?

Share your comments, suggestions, and stories below

You're Wacky Wednesday Student Ambassador

Corina

Play with your Food!

I wrote before about finding your niche and taking advantage of opportunities that come your way, never writing anything off as “not for me.”  Versatility is SO important as a photographer, because when it comes right down to it, you may not be raking in the dough if you focus on just one type of subject.  Trying out different genres and getting comfortable with a variety of subject matter will make you much more marketable.  For example, weddings are a blast to shoot but in Chicago, wedding season does not last all year.  The months of May through November are relatively busy, but the winter months can be quite slow.  As a wedding photographer I need to fill in the slow periods with other work, and I have found success with lifestyle family photography and even some commercial product shoots.

One genre I never thought I would try out is food photography, because you have to be (or hire) a food stylist to really make the best possible food photos.  You know, the ones that make you want to pull the food right out of the billboard or magazine because they look so real and tasty?  I had classes with a super talented woman named Peka, and her Mowie Kay-esque work inspired me to play with my food!  I picked out some recipes, hit up Trader Joe’s, stopped by World Market for cheap dishes and surfaces, and got to work.

What I found about shooting food was surprising.  Of course shooting food can help a photographer become accustomed to shooting commercial work in general, but the lessons I learned could so easily be applied to many other genres.  Interested in shooting landscapes?  The elements of a meal can be looked at as a miniature landscape, and you can play with light to see how it casts shadows in crevices and highlights different colors and textures (Carl Warner takes this to another level with his foodscapes).  Practice with aerial views and you will get used to seeing how a scene changes based on perspective.  

Do you see yourself shooting weddings and events?  You will definitely need to be able to make food look good, whether it’s served in a church basement or a lavish ballroom.  You can work on expressing different moods with your lights and backdrops and take all the time you need instead of feeling rushed because of a model's schedule.  Getting used to styling a food- or drink-centric scene now will prepare you for when the pressure is on.

Food photography is such an easy way to master your equipment when you aren’t able to work with a human subject, or when the weather ruins your outdoor shooting plans.  Who knows, you may end up shooting the next cookbook of your favorite chef!

Need inspiration?  Check out the G+ Food Photography community to see how others are composing and styling their food images, and to share your own work.  There are photographers of many skill levels there so don't be afraid to join in the fun!  I'd love to know how you practice your skills when you are stuck inside or don't want to work on portraits.  Tell me in the comments below!

Works Cited:

Kay, Mowie. "Mowie Kay: Food & Lifestyle Photographer." Mowie Kay: Food Photographer London. Mowie Kay, 2014. Web. 28 Jan. 2014.

Warner, Carl. "Foodscapes." Carl Warner. Carl Warner, 2014. Web. 31 Jan. 2014.

Escape with Travel Photography!

During this extremely cold bout of winter weather, I can't help but think back on times when the sun beat down on my face and I got to walk outside without snow boots up to my knees!  Photographs have that unique ability to transport us back to where we were the moment we snapped the shutter, evoking the sounds, scents, and emotions we experienced.  What better way to escape the chill outside than by talking about travel photography?  There are countless ways to approach the topic, so I would simply like to share some images that demonstrate what I look for when I shoot in a new place.

Isolate color.
Especially in tropical climates, vibrant colors can make for memorable images.  Sometimes a combination of many bright colors can make for an exciting scene, but finding more monochromatic compositions can be quite striking.  In the below image I wanted to give the viewer an impression of the vast amount of green in one of Curacao's national parks but needed a focal point.  The single blue-green cactus peeking out of the foliage broke up the composition just enough to give it interest.  Vivid yellows and greens make up the remainder of the scene, made more vibrant by the midday sun.

The lack of a vibrant color can bring a different mood to the scene, so don't be afraid to shoot in a seemingly bland environment or at dusk against the sun - you just might come away with a nice silhouette shot or a moody composition!  The curving dark horns of this wildebeest are a sharp contrast to the soft grasses surrounding it.  With the sun setting, the grasses took on the warm neutral tones that would otherwise have been pale beige.

Capture well-known landmarks in an unexpected way.
On a family trip to Venice, I captured plenty of typical shots in the Piazza S. Marco, but was hoping to find a way to make the scene my own.  Pigeons are an iconic part of the Piazza, so when I saw them bathing in and drinking from the puddles I focused my gaze downward.  The combination of the stone, pigeons, and dome let the viewer know where the image was taken in a more subtle way.



Find the locals.
The most interesting way to experience a new place, whether it is a Caribbean island or a town 30 miles away, is to find places where the locals go to enjoy their community.  Something as seemingly mundane as a farmer's market can feel exotic in another country, and including people in your shot adds instant interest!

Let your surroundings inspire and guide you!
You may be in a beautiful place, but the subject you wish to shoot is against a backdrop that will cause it to blend in.  The male lion below was almost the same color as his surroundings, so my best images were cropped in close.  This was not the best time for a wide shot because the lion would not have stood out.  I shot this at 200mm to crop out as much of his environment as possible (from a safe distance, of course) and then cropped just a bit more in post production.

When the environment is working in your favor for a wide shot, give the viewer perspective!  After days of searching for the elusive black rhinos, our guide spotted them in the distance as tiny, moving black spots.  This shot shows the severely endangered species in its natural environment, enjoying its expansive territory while protected by the park's security.  Eco-tourism and photo safaris help keep the animals protected, and sharing your images can show others why they are worth saving!  Keep in mind how you can use the environment, or remove it, to send a message or make a bigger impact.

What do you look for when you visit a new place with your camera?  Leave a comment and let us know!

-Friday Ambassador