Street Photography

This week I want to talk about a subject that probably makes many of you nervous, Street Photography. Many new photographers cringe at the thought of shooting street, but if you are a photography student, then I am sure you have had a professor or three tell you that you need to learn to start shooting outside your comfort zone.

College student taking a catnap on the steps in Centennial Olympic Park downtown ATL

 Street Photography doesn’t have to be scary and there are some tips I am going to share with you this week to hopefully make you more successful at it. The key to doing Street Photography is being discreet. You don’t want to be out there with your biggest telephoto lens, trying to avoid human contact because you will make your subjects nervous. Take your camera body and a prime lens like a 35mm or 50mm, these lenses will require you to get more up close and personal, but that is the whole idea. Don’t take a flash with you or anything else that will be intrusive or invasive to your subjects, for Street Photography you want to be a minimalist.

Woman walking and texting on her way to bus stop

 Mirrorless is a good camera to use for Street Photography as most of these models are extremely small and light weight, yet make amazing images. Get up close to your subjects and interact with them, talk to them, get a little bit of their story, build some rapport and you will find that Street Photography is not so hard to pull off.

If you are someone like myself who is fairly sociable to begin with and can build an instant rapport with people, then Street Photography will be easier for you. If you don’t have this natural knack, then take it slowly and don’t try to force the issue with your subject. Be respectful of them and their personal space, you don’t want to drastically interfere with their routine or whatever they are doing, but you do need to interact with them enough to make this process easier. Talk to them about the weather, the local sports team, how terrible the traffic is (especially if you live in Atlanta), or anything else that strikes your fancy. Stay away from HOT topics like politics or religion, I don’t want you getting into a hostile debate or getting attacked by some nut.

As you get more and more experienced at shooting Street Photography and become more comfortable, you may find that you really enjoy shooting it. I know I did during the last two years I worked in downtown Atlanta. Also when you become more confident, some people will actually approach you and ask to be shot as part of whatever you are shooting for, I have had this happen numerous times and it can be a lot of fun!

Rodney here is one of the many people that have stopped me and asked to pose for a street portrait

 The important things I want you take away from this week’s blog post is that Street Photography doesn’t need to be scary. If you keep your gear to the bare minimum and take the time to talk to your subjects you will find that this style of photography is not nearly as frightening as you originally thought.

Comments/Questions

Simplicity

A lot of photographers suffer from equipment paralysis. By that I mean they buy too much gear, especially too many lenses and drag too much gear with them out in the field, then they spend all their time thinking about their gear, their settings, etc and none of their time concentrating on their images. What happens then? They end up with crappy photos over and over again, and then keep buying more gear thinking more gear will make they images better.

Next time you go out to shoot, try taking only 1 or at most 2 lenses with you. This should be all you need and you will spend more time concentrating on your images and less time thinking about your gear and your settings.

I challenge myself and the members of my camera club all the time to go out on our monthly shoots and only take one lens to do all their shooting. Move closer or further away as the case may be to get the shot and the framing you need to make that awesome image.

The weekend I went to Ian Henderson's Antique Mall, I shot with nothing but my Canon EF 50mm F/1.4 USM

There is an old analogy I learned when I was a kid called K.I.S.S (Keep It Simple Stupid). A lot of professional photographers have learned to keep their gear streamlined and that is how they become so successful. I remember reading on SLRLounge I believe it was about a year ago about one of the most successful wedding photographers in NYC. He shoots ALL of his weddings with a pair of Canon 1Dx bodies and never uses more than a EF 70-200mm F/2.8 L IS USM and an EF 135mm F/2 L USM portrait lens and this pro makes 6 to 7 figures a year shooting weddings!

When asked during the interview why he used such a small amount a gear he said, “To be honest in most cases a photographer seldom needs more than a good 70-200mm F/2.8. It’s the number one lens sold for a reason. I also use the 135mm F/2 L USM because it creates amazing portraits with fantastic bokeh, which is something the majority of brides want in their wedding photos.”

Thinking and a simplified approach to gear is why real pros can shoot with anything, even and iPhone and take amazing photos.

Comments/Questions

Photography Gear Luggage

As a professional photographer one of the things you will need to consider at some point and time is luggage for your photography gear. When it comes to packing and carrying your gear there are several ways you can do it depending on your needs at any given time.

1. Waist bags - these are small bags that you wear around your waist like a regular belt, but they can carry your camera and a couple of lenses and batteries. Think of them as kind of a fanny pack for your camera. There are several companies that make them from LowePro to Targus and they can range in quality and price from $20-$100.

2. Backpacks - These are just like they sound, you strap them on your back and carry your gear that way, great for hiking or walking around an event. They usually hold 1-2 bodies and 5-6 lenses and also have compartments for batteries, filters, iPad, laptop, and hoops that hold your tripod. They range in size from small to fairly large, are made by many companies from LowePro, to Targus, to Canon and Nikon and prices can run from $40-$300.

3. Rollerbags - These are similar to the suitcases people use to travel by air, they hold your gear and have a telescoping handle with wheels on the bottom and you pull them behind you. They can hold 2-4 bodies, 4-8 lenses, memory cards, Speedlights, filters, laptop, iPad, tripod and other items. They usually have multiple pockets and compartments and vary in size. Again they are made by the usual camera luggage makers, LowePro, Targus, Canon, etc, and can run in price from $100-$500 depending on the size and materials they are made from. You can also buy special roller cases that will carry your studio lighting for you as well.

4. Briefcase - These cases are usually made of quality aluminum and have foam inserts to protect your gear. The inserts can be ordered custom cut for your gear, but that usually makes them more expensive, or pick and pull, which means the foam is perforated and you can pick and pull pieces out to make your own custom size pockets for your gear. The most common maker of these is Zero Halliburton and they run $200-$800.

5. Durable Plastic Trunk - These are usually make of high strength plastic and again have the pick and pull foam to custom cut your own compartments with your fingers. These are most commonly made by Pelican Cases and range in price from $129-$600 depending on the size. Recently, Pelican started making a version of their trunks that have the telescoping handle and rollers wheels so you can pull it behind you instead of carrying it like a foot locker. They also come with padlock ports on each end to keep your gear secure.

Of course any time you have to fly for a shoot I would recommend the Zero Halliburton aluminum cases or the Pelican ones as they are the toughest and can be stowed in the belly of the plane. Some pros prefer to carry they heavy gear in these cases and stow them but carry their actual body and lenses in a smaller carry-on bag like a backpack to keep them with them at all times and not risk the airline losing their gear en route to a shoot.





Comments/Questions

Carry Less, Shoot More

Back when I started in photography, I bought lots of gear and started out carrying most of it with me when I went out all day shooting. Many photographers do this and soon learn that it’s not fun carrying all that gear all day long out in the field. Most of the components of your DSLR system weigh mere ounces to a couple pounds and it may not sound like a lot of weight but when you have ALL of it in a bag or backpack, it’s amazing how heavy it all becomes as the day wears on.

Golf ball in my flower bed shot with 50mm

I now try to minimize what I carry when out in the field all day long so I can carry less weight and shoot more. Another advantage of carrying less aside from going on a camera diet is it is a great way to challenge yourself to be more creative with what you have on you. When carrying all your gear, you tens to spend less time shooting and more time fiddling with lenses and it becomes difficult to focus on shooting as you have a hard time visualizing on what you want to shoot and how to frame it.

If I am going out to just shoot all day I want a good, light weight set up that I can shoot a variety of scenes with and I often find myself grabbing my Canon EF 50mm F/1.4 USM also known as the Nifty Fifty. For me the body doesn’t really matter as all my bodies but one are Canon and I can even use my Canon lenses on my Sony NEX 6 as I have the Canon to Sony adapter.

Atlanta diner owner shot with 50mm

I like the Nifty Fifty set up as 50mm focal length is one of the most popular and most versatile lens out there. It’s great for street photography, portraits, and even landscapes, although it’s not as wide as my EF 17-40mm or my Sony 16-50mm.

Another reason I love the Nifty Fifty is it’s low weight of only 10.23 ounces. My Canon EOS 5 & 6Ds weight close to the same at around 27 ounces, so I keep my total weight to around 3 pounds total. Couple this with my new PeakDesign CapturePRO camera clip mounting system and I can be on my feet all day long with no issues.

Street photography downtown ATL shot with 50mm

 The next reason I recommend carrying less is so that you can become better with one set up. You don’t want to be out in the field worrying about changing lenses, risking getting dust on your sensor and trying to make up your mind what lens will give you the shot you want and then you miss the shot totally. By carrying a simple set up, you perfect your skills using what you have with you. You don’t need to have that zoom lens with you, get closer to what you want to shoot. This not only makes you more creative and builds your skills but you will find that you will enjoy your photography more and do less thinking or over thinking and as a result, less missing the shot. It’s also great when using a lens like the 50mm as you move around more and get more exercise. Who would have thought you could do something you love like photography all day and lose weight and become more fit at the same time. Now get out there and make some great pictures.

Comments/Questions

Photography is Killing You: Bad Habits to Fix Now

We all tend to pick up bad habits over time whether it be technical or physical.  Oftentimes, after a long day of shooting, you may feel wiped out and maybe even a little brain-fried being on-point for so long, but there are likely several other reasons why you're ready to collapse at the end of your work day.  You, your camera bag, and your gear might not be working together effectively.

"Slipped discs, muscle spasms, rotator cuff syndrome, tendinitis and carpal tunnel are just a few of the occupational hazards that can come from lugging around a heavy bag of gear and turning yourself into a human tripod for a living." (Moses)

Now is the time to re-evaluate your shooting habits because you might be one assignment away from a serious injury.  Here is some expert advice on staying pain- and injury-free.


You might select your camera bag based on style or efficiency, maybe even cost, but you also need to consider what's really right for you.  Dr. Gerard Varlotta warns photographers about carrying any bag with an asymmetrical design such as over-the-shoulder and messenger bags.  This causes unbalance, twisting, and tilting.  Backpacks are not necessarily the better choice here either if you pack it with one side heavier than the other.  So, don't overload your bag either.  This, again, will end up causing some asymmetry in how you carry it.  It is recommended that you carry no more than 10% of your body weight in your bag.

The fit of the bag is also very important.  Dr. Varlotta says, “The closer to the body the better.”  Dr. Karen Erickson, DC, another expert, recommends wearing your backpack like this:

• "The backpack should end near your ribs, with the weight being distributed between your shoulder blades.  If the backpack hangs too low on your body you can put a lot of tension on your low back."
• "Look for straps that are wide and padded.  The straps should be snug enough to bring the material of the bag close to your body."
• "A backpack with a waistband that sits on the hips can take stress off the shoulders, neck and low back."

You might also be at a greater risk of potential injuries and ailments if you have bad physical habits such as poor posture, being overweight/not exercising, and smoking.  Here are a few more tips to reduce the development of pains and strains:

• Use rolling bags when possible
• Limit the equipment that you carry around your neck
• Use a monopod with heavier outfits (such as a heavy lens and/or speedlight)
• Wrap your camera strap around your wrist to carry
• Avoid dehydration

"Photographers are just like athletes who need great physical demands and fitness to carry out their job tasks.  They should be fit and healthy in order to prevent/reduce injuries and disability that can limit or end their shooting careers." (Loon)

Sundial Clinics recommends doing a number of stretches either before, during, and/or after your shoot to help reduce the accumulation of muscle tension and fatigue.  These basic stretches are listed below and can be found in detail here.

Neck

• Upper trapezius stretch
• Shoulder stretch
• Chest stretch
• Thoracic stretch                 

Lower Back

• Trunk rotation
• Toe touches
• Wall Roll
• Lateral flexion
• Standing cat stretch

I'm not here to give you a lecture on taking care of your physical health but I do hope that you can take away a few tips to keep yourself safe from long-term injury.  I find it inspiring to think of myself as an athlete with a camera!  To be the best athlete, um, photographer that you can be it is important to do it all right.  Right?  Have you been injured or almost injured taking photos?  Tell me about it in the comments.  

Those crazy positions we get ourselves into and hunching over for long periods of time can take its toll.  Please take care of yourself like you do your equipment (if you're like me).

Works Cited

"A photographer carrying a tripod in silhouette at twilight." Photograph. Encyclopedia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 15 Sep 2014.
<http://quest.eb.com/#/search/137_3089694/1/137_3089694/cite>

"Back Pain Woman." Photograph. Encyclopedia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 15 Sep 2014.
<http://quest.eb.com/#/search/300_346940/1/300_346940/cite>

Loon, Teong Kar. "Common Injuries in Phootographers and How to Prevent Them." ntuchealth. NTUC Health Co-operative Ltd., n.d. Web. 15 Sept. 2014. <http://www.ntuchealth.com.sg/health_info/common_ailments/common_injuries_in_photographers.php>

Moses, Jeanette D. "Photography is Killing You: Health Tips For Photographers." popphoto. Bonnier Corp., 10 June 2014. Web. 15 Sept. 2014. <http://www.popphoto.com/gear/2014/06/photography-killing-you-health-tips-photographers>

"Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada." Photograph. Encyclopedia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 15 Sep 2014.
<http://quest.eb.com/#/search/137_3122378/1/137_3122378/cite>

"Tips to prevent back and shoulder pains in photographers." sundialclinics. Sundial Clinics, 11 Oct. 2010. Web. 15 Sept. 2014. <http://sundialclinics.co.uk/conditions/backpain/tips-to-prevent-back-and-shoulder-pains-in-photographers/ >

"Young woman stretching in field." Photograph. Encyclopedia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 15 Sep 2014.
<http://quest.eb.com/#/search/154_2894530/1/154_2894530/cite>

Know Your Gear, Save Your Shot!

I vividly remember my very first maternity session, which I shot for friends. It was so exciting to capture a special time in their lives, but even though they were friends I wanted to execute the session perfectly to make them happy and begin a new portion of my portfolio. Well, we did capture images that I adore, but there was a moment when my "oh crap" poker face came in handy. Finger on the shutter button, I pressed down and nothing happened. Nothing. My screen showed a dreaded error, but I'd not yet learned everything I should have about my camera body. FEE kept flashing at me, taunting me when all I wanted was the shot below with my 85mm. Luckily for me and my friends, I also had my 70-200mm on my other camera body for nicely compressed portraits. It only took a few seconds to switch cameras, but my heart was beating so quickly with the thought that my expensive lens or camera might be broken. A quick Google search when I got home relieved my worries, but I couldn't help but wonder what I would have captured if I'd only known I had to simply move the aperture ring on the lens and reattach it.


Being a student allows you the freedom to experiment and push your gear to the limits. To get the most out of it, though, you need to learn everything it's capable of. Read your manuals, look at reviews to learn how each piece excels or falls flat, and definitely memorize those error codes so you don't end up in a situation like I did!

Do you have any anecdotes about times when you wish you'd known your gear a bit better? Leave them in the comments so we can learn from one another.

So Fresh and So Clean!

Keeping your DSLR clean. Source: MyDigitalCamera.us.

The investments we make in our gear are vast. We spend time researching to choose just the right camera and lenses, money to make the purchases, and more time to learn our gear inside and out. If you're not sure of the best ways to maintain and clean your valuable items, read on for some easy methods you can incorporate into your routine.

Lenses - Glass

A microfiber cloth (or disposable lens cleaning cloths) and optical cleaner are must-haves for your camera bag. I also keep a lens pen in mine, which has two ends: one to brush away dust, and one with a flat surface to buff out smudges. An air blower is a big more bulky, so I just keep one at home for between-shoot cleanings.

Lenses and Camera Bodies - Focus Rings

The focus connection points on your lenses and camera body need attention. You can give them a cosmetic cleaning with a microfiber cloth, but for a deeper clean you can dampen a cotton swab with Purosol and gently clean out any grit.

Camera Sensor

Far and away the most intimidating part of the camera to clean, many people choose to send their cameras out for sensor cleaning. This can be very costly, though, and it's relatively easy to do it yourself. The first step is to use your camera's self-cleaning option, but that doesn't always do the trick. For tougher dust specks, I like to use the sensor gel stick by Photography Life. I find it so much better and less likely to do damage than the cleaning kits that require swabbing across the sensor. Again, though, if the idea of exposing your sensor scares you, take your camera to the shop.

When you're not shooting, make sure your gear is stored sealed in bags or cases to avoid dust getting into crevices. Taking regular measures to maintain your gear will make it last much longer. If you have other tips on maintaining and cleaning your camera and lenses, leave a comment!

-Friday Ambassador

Work Cited:

"How to Clean DSLR Camera Sensor." My Digital Camera. MyDigitalCamera.us, 14 July 2011. Web. 10 Apr. 2014.

"Optical Lens Cleaner." Purosol. Purosol, 2011. Web. 10 Apr. 2014.

But I Don't Wanna....

...buy that new whatever for class that I swear I'll never use because I know better.


Welcome to Photography as a career (and even as a hobby)...its going to be a long, bumpy, and expensive ride.

Every class has equipment requirements and the school even recommends specific models of equipment that will meet the needs of the course.  That doesn't mean you HAVE to buy that particular brand/model, but it does mean that you should buy something with EQUIVILENT or BETTER features.  To be fair it can get expensive.  Personally, I have between $15-20K in gear and ancillary equipment (camera, lenses, iMac, software, printers, paper, light meter, hot lights, studio strobes, etc...)  That doesn't mean you have to spend the same amount that I have, you can get less expensive equipment and do just fine.  But you will need to buy equipment.

Here is my list of things that are expensive, but worth it...

1. Light meter:  This is probably the single most used tool (aside from the camera) in my bag.  Spend the money, buy one, and learn how to use it.  It will be one of the most important things that you can do for your self in your photography career.



2. Printer:  Your all-in-one printer/fax/copier/toaster/Keurig Machine is not acceptable.  You are training to be a PROFESSIONAL photographer, so buy something that will produce a product that is also professional grade.  The school recommends 6+ inkwells or more.  I recommend more.  You don't have to spend $4000 on a printer, but be prepared to spend $300-400 at least.



3.  Strobes:  There are many, many options here and while strobes may not be for everyone, they are required if you plan on completing your degree.  It is my opinion that this is one area that you should not buy the cheapest thing you can find.  Do some research and find something reliable that produces high quality results.  The kit you find with 3 strobes for $100 is probably not your best choice, and probably won't be powerful enough to overpower the sun when you need it to

I am sure there are more items I could add to the list, but I think you get the idea.  Spend some money today to invest in your tomorrow.  Its future, don't short change yourself



Work Cited

Krogemann, Mike. "April." mkphotstudio. Mike Krogemann, n.d. Web. 12 Nov. 2013.
     <http://mkphotostudio.smugmug.com/Portraits/Model-Moment/i-ppMqZ78/0/L/
     Image_76-L.jpg>.