The End is Near but it's Far from Over

As I approach the final week of school I am realizing how important some elements of these classes are in preparing us to be released into the wild, to make the transition from student to professional.

In the early stages of school I wanted to be a "well-rounded photographer" who was capable of photographing anything and everything so that I could appeal to more clients.  There are classes that force us to choose one specific area of interest and however frustrating it may seem to settle into one niche, it does make putting together your portfolio as well as learning how to talk about yourself as a professional easier.  Having more work and experience in a certain area of photography still allows you creative freedom while you build a larger collection of images.  

My newly-developed area of interest, Editorial photography, was actually a lot easier to put together into a portfolio than it was when I called myself a Nature photographer because the Photography program allowed me to explore other areas of the field that I would otherwise not get to try in the real world.  I found comfort in nature but found my calling doing environmental portraits and photo stories from the assignments I shot for class as well as for myself.

You may be taking classes that you have no interest in but you will also have classes that inspire you.  I had my fair share of snooze-worthy classes but I also had a handful that really opened my eyes to my own skills and talents as well as one special instructor who inspired me to pursue the editorial genre.  Accept challenges as opportunities to grow, ask questions for better comprehension, and never stop shooting what you are passionate about.  

I recently had an assignment where I was required to use my strobes--I haven't used those in months so I was both dreading and looking forward to packing up my studio and doing an on-location shoot.  I was anxious because I had no idea what the location was going to look like but I definitely knew how to use my lights.  I actually felt confident going in to the shoot--something I had never really felt before when I did any portraiture.  At the end of the program it feels good to finally have confidence, but it feels even better knowing I worked hard to get where I am.  None of it came easy, not even this last class where I felt more frustrated and misunderstood than I ever have before, but I am proud that I never gave up.  I didn't have the extra time to work on my projects as I have in the past, but every time I do a photo shoot I find myself saying, "I love my job!"

Next week will be my goodbye post, but in the meantime you can check out my Web portfolio here.  

What classes have inspired you?  Tell me in the comments or share a story about how you have developed as a photographer since you started school!

(All photos in this post are my own.)

Personal Projects

   As photographers, we must always strive to find ways to keep from falling into a rut, creatively. We have to always be creative and imaginative in our work in order to make our clients happy. Over time you may find that you have lost that “spark” and photography is starting to feel too much like a job rather than someone you loved that you went to school to get paid for.

                                              old phone booth in Lincoln County, Ga

    A good way to stay “fresh” as a photographer and artist and keep your passion alive is with personal projects. Personal projects are photography projects that you come up with that are mostly for fun and to keep the spark ignited, but can also serve a purpose such as raising social awareness. I personally recommend and I know many of our professors so as well, that you always have one or two “pet” projects on the back burner, that you work on when you have time.

    Over time, becoming established as a professional photographer, you may even be commissioned by a client to do a photography project, such as the one Time Magazine sent Ed Kashi on, photographing the incoming Hurricane Sandy in New Jersey with nothing but an iPhone.

                                            from Ed Kashi's project on Super Storm Sandy

    For me personally, I am working on a personal project right now I call Forgotten Pieces of Georgia. For my project, I am traveling the back roads of Georgia, shooting old buildings, rusted old vehicles and the like and talking to people as I go to get more information about their area and the way it’s  been devastated by the poor economy. The project will take considerable time and effort as I am shooting in all 159 counties of Georgia, but yours doesn’t have to be as massive an undertaking. I am including a couple of shot from my project for inspiration as well as one of Ed’s from the Super Storm Sandy project he did for Time.

                                            abandoned Citgo station in Lincoln County, Ga

    So, think of a personal project that you would love to do, and just do it. You may not be able to devote all your time and energy to it as other things get in the way, but you can at least set some time aside every month to make some progress. Now get out there and shoot!


Source:
6 Famous Photographers Working on Epic Projects, Photoventure. Web. visited Nov 23, 2014 http://www.photoventure.com/2013/03/01/6-famous-photographers-working-on-epic-photo-projects/



Comments/Questions

Which Lenses are Better, Primes or Zooms?

    Another question I have frequently asked by other students and even members of my photography club is which lens is better, Primes or Zooms?

    This is an interesting question and can stir some debate. Primes are lenses with a fixed focal length, such as the Canon 40mm STM Pancake lens or the Canon or Nikon 50mm lenses, known as the “Nifty Fifty”. These lenses are not able to zoom in and out but they are extremely power lenses to have.

    Advantages of the Primes is they will be of a wider aperture than the zooms. My 40mm lens is F/2.8 and my 50mm is F/1.4, with the wider aperture, I can use these lenses in much lower light levels than I can say my 28-135mm F/3.5-5.6 lens, which covers the same two focal lengths. There are today zooms than can do F/2.8 but they are very expensive and I don’t want to get off track here.

    The other difference with Primes is, since they have a fixed focal length you have to get closer when shooting something. A lot of photographers like to use the “Nifty Fifty” for portraits, but you cannot shoot a portrait of someone from 10-12 feet with a 50mm as you will pick up too much background. Move in to around 3-6 feet and you will get a great portrait, depending on the style you are shooting for. The Prime lens will generally have a sharper focus to it, even at the wide end of it’s aperture and will cost a lot less money than a zoom.

                                    My mailbox shot with the 40mm STM from around 2-3 feet

    Zooms do have their places, however, such as shooting at an outdoor event like a concert or fair where you cannot always get close to your subject and really need or want to get the shot. In these situations, yes it’s great to have that handy telephoto zoom lens to get in nice and tight to the subject without risking yourself or interfering with anyone else, say law enforcement at an accident scene. Zooms have come a long way and like a said, a nice 70-200mm F/2.8 is one of the most popular lens from both Canon and Nikon, but it’s also got a hefty price of up to $2,500 where you can get a good prime generally for $140-$700.

                           My mailbox shot with the Canon 70-200mm F/4 L USM from around 20 feet

    So, do both lenses have a place in your camera bag, absolutely, and as a general rule, my Primes and Zooms will usually sit in the bag peacefully without fighting too much. I do challenge you to use your primes more, many photographers tend to get lazy or they are shy and don’t want to get close to their subjects. I encourage you to break out of this mode of thinking and get close to your subjects, as long as you can do so without getting hurt or killed in the process. I’m not telling you to walk up to the lion at the zoo and get in his face with your 50mm, but next time you are shooting people, say on the street, use that 50mm and get up close and personal.


Comments/Questions

5 Ways to Honor Veterans with Your Photography

There are special times of the year in which we can challenge ourselves to go out and do some good with our photography; this Veteran's Day is a great opportunity to shoot with some extra purpose.  With over 23 million veterans in the United States, there is a very good chance that you might know a veteran, have one living on your street, or have a Veteran's Day celebration of some sort in your town.  Below are five ways to give back to the brave men and women who served, fought, and sacrificed for our freedoms.

1.  Document a Veteran's Ceremony.

Documentary-style photography doesn't have to be your niche to take good photos for a good cause.  Towns big and small will have concerts, flag ceremonies, speeches, and parades from veterans that beg to be documented.  Consider attending an event with your camera and capturing those special moments, then offer the photos to the organizations or people you meet as a way of showing your support and/or appreciation.

2.  Shoot family photos for a veteran's family.

If you know a veteran or someone who is currently serving in any branch of the military, ask if you can shoot a free family session as a promo for Veterans Day.  Family photos are precious items for most people, especially those who are far from home, who may be deploying soon, or perhaps those with a long lineage of military service.  You don't have to schedule the shoot for November 11th, but you can introduce the promo and schedule a shoot when it is convenient for all parties.

3. Visit an army hospital, convalescent home or homeless shelter.

There’s a good chance you’ll meet at least one veteran in a recovery home with a military buildup around WWII and the Korean war.  Arrange to visit one of these places that take care of veterans and take your camera.  Listen to veteran’s stories and take their portraits to remember their stories.  It is unfortunate that many of our veterans end up in places like this without family and your company and attentive ear has the power to make a huge difference in their day of celebration.











4. Take photos of your hometown.

Take landscape photos of notable spots in your hometown and make them into cards to send to a veteran serving from your area.  There’s a good chance that with so many people currently in the military, some of them are bound to be from your hometown and having a photo of home could hold a lot of sentimental value to someone who is serving far away from home.  If you don't know of anyone to send these to you find an organization that pairs up service members with people who want to send encouraging notes such as USO's, VFW's, American Legions, and MWR's.

5. Volunteer with an organization.

Many non-profit organizations serve veterans and their families and often these organizations often need or could greatly benefit from photography to help further their mission and raise awareness for the people that they are serving.  Consider reaching out to an organization in your area to volunteer your services for a good cause.  It doesn't even have to be photography-related but will look good as a donation of your time that you can promote on your business site.


Do you have any other suggestions for honoring our veterans with photography?  Post a comment below or if you get the chance to try out one of these five suggestions I would love to see the resulting images!  Here is one of my own:

Works Cited

Donner, Nicholas. "5 Ways to Honor Veterans with Your Photography." craftsy. Craftsy and Sympoz Inc., 10 Nov. 2014. Web. 10 Nov. 2014. <http://www.craftsy.com/blog/?p=126291&ext=FB_PC_PP_Registrations_20141108_blog_26&utm_source=Facebook&utm_medium=Social%20Engagement&utm_campaign=Photography%20Club-Registrations&initialPage=true>

"Flags and Tombstones." Photograph. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 10 Nov 2014.
<http://quest.eb.com/#/search/139_1992968/1/139_1992968/cite>

"Florida, Miami, Biscayne Boulevard, Bayfront Park, Veterans Day PARADE." Photograph. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 10 Nov 2014.
<http://quest.eb.com/#/search/300_1821366/1/300_1821366/cite>

"Memorial Day Ceremony In Coconut Grove, Florida." Photographer. Encyclopædia Britannica ImageQuest. Web. 10 Nov 2014.
<http://quest.eb.com/#/search/115_2720589/1/115_2720589/cite>

Keeping Your DSLR Sensor Clean

    One of the biggest problems we face as photographers is keeping that DSLR sensor clean when shooting, especially when shooting outdoors. Your sensor is the primary component inside your camera for capturing and preserving those moments to the memory card and needs to always be in the best possible condition and clean to take great photos. Dirt, dust, oils and general grime on the sensor will show up on your images and make them look badly such as the example below from The Digital picture.com

    Those two spots you see are from sensor dust and they are imbedded in your image. Now you can remove them using Photoshop, Lightroom and some other editing programs, but why not prevent them all together? I am going to give you some tips for keeping the dust and dirt out of your sensor.

Never touch the inside of your DSLR, especially with you fingers. The internal workings behind your lens are not meant for your fingers so, keep them out!
Only change your lens in a semi controlled environment. What I mean by this is don’t change your lenses outdoors in 35mph winds as you are just asking for sensor dirt.
Keep your camera pointed down when changing lenses. I am not sure why so many people don’t get this one. Holding the camera with the opening facing forward or up just invites the dirt in, holding it down makes it harder for it to get in.
Never change the lens with the camera powered on. Will it ruin your camera to do so, no but it will keep a static charge inside the shutter area and allow dust to be drawn to your sensor like a magnet.
   
    I have found, one of the easiest ways to keep my sensor clean is just limit how often I change lenses. I never change them outdoors if I can help it. I carry 2-3 bodies when I am shooting outdoors and I equip one body with a wide angle lens for landscapes, the second one will have a portrait lens of some sort for capturing people and my third will have a nice telephoto zoom for anything else I might need to shoot. Now I know you are thinking “I’m not rich enough to afford 2-3 camera bodies.” You’d be surprised the deals you can find at local pawn shops or yard sales, often people don’t realize what they have and will sell the bodies cheap. Also, who says you need the latest, most expensive body out there. Instead of buying one $1,000-$3,000 body, use that money to buy 2-3 bodies that are cheaper because they are the older model, like getting a Canon 1Ds full frame for $500 that was made in 2004 but still shoots great, instead of the Canon 1Dx which runs $7,000. Too many people don’t seem to realize that it is not the camera that takes the great images, it’s the person behind it.
    Until next Sunday, this is the Sunday Ambassador saying get out there and make some great images!

Comments/Questions

Looking for and going to a Photo Expo near you.

Last week I went to the PhotoPlus Expo in NYC. It was a great experience getting to see all the different new products and even some of the old. It a good place to run into people you know or even make new friends. While you don't always have to spend money at the photo expo it is usually a good place to look for a deal. You can also bring your questions that you might have for the different products. When I went I had the intentions of buying a book bag to put my camera in because I have out grown the shoulder strap bag that came with the camera. I was able to walk around and look at all the different ones each company had and see what one had the best price.
          While the companies where offering a good price on some of them I was still able to purchase the bad cheaper with my student discount. It was nice because there was no shipping or tax and I took the bag home that day. I know I can't fit everything I have in this bag but it will work for most shoots. I will have to only take what I think is most important. I also sat in a couple of classes at the show. While some of them where very basic and gave information I already knew it was a good refresher as well as a place to get some new ideas. Of coarse they show off the gear you only dream to own, but not all of it was expensive.
           The one product that they showed was called a Eye Lighter by Westcott, it was great. It was used to bounce light back up into your subjects face and fill the shadows. While you probably would only use the for head shots I can see it paying for its self very quickly if that was your main business. I would have never know about this product if I didn't goto the show and sign up for some classes.
            There are photo expo type shows all across the country so take a look in your area and see what's available. I know they gave a big one in TN and Vegas. For more information on the Eye Lighter take a look at this link.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search/mode/edu?Ntt=Eye+lighter&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=


TBT

Thursday Ambassador

Night Time Long Expsoure

 So this week I thought I’d write about night time long exposure as it’s one of my favorite photographic styles. This type of photography can be lots of fun but you need to be careful, especially shooting along roads at night and police will often stop to see what you are doing late at night along a highway.

    I have had a lot of students ask me how to do night time long exposure and it’s really pretty easy and some trial and error. You will need the following equipment:

1. DSLR camera with a charged battery and memory card installed
2. Good, sturdy tripod
3. Remote shutter for your camera, I recommend a cable release or Triggertrap
4. A good, sharp lens, aperture doesn’t really matter but I prefer something like the Canon 40mm STM Pancake lens with F/2.8

    Now, just find a good location at night, I prefer to shoot after 11pm myself but your mileage may vary. Set your camera up on your tripod and hook up the cable release. You will need BULB mode on your camera as your shutter setting. Now, set your lens to as wide as possible and set your focus to manual mode and your ISO to 100.

    They way I do it, I wait until a nice stream of vehicles are coming and then press the cable and hold it for 20-30 seconds and you can get some pretty cool warp speed effects that makes the cars look like they are streaking by. The image below is one I shot I call Wall of Light. This image was actually chosen by AI to be in a school publication last year.

    Night time long exposure is not limited to shooting traffic along the road, you can use the exact same settings to shoot landscapes as well, say a nice home in your area or just about anything. I am also including one I did of a local lake at night I call this one Twilight Lake. This image was chosen by an independent judge to be in AI’s Veteran’s show last year in the Second Life gallery. As you can see, you can make some fantastic images at night, so don't think daytime is the only time you can shoot.

    Go on out there and try it for yourself!


Comments/Questions